Alfama, Lissabon

Alfama

Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest neighbourhood and one of the oldest in Europe. It is a place where it is possible to step back into medieval Lisbon while simultaneously feeling the modernity that accompanies the Portuguese capital. Situated on a hillside facing the Tagus River, from Alfama one can look out over Lisbon’s rooftops arranged in an amphitheatre, across the Tagus and towards the south bank. Alfama lies within Lisbon’s historic centre, bordering the neighbourhoods of Graça, Mouraria, the Castelo and the Baixa. It is close to the luxury of Avenida da Liberdade, the cosmopolitan Chiado and the bohemian Bairro Alto.

Alfama retains its narrow, winding, labyrinthine streets with alleys and lanes. Here it is possible to see laundry hanging from windows, people calling loudly from one window to another as if in a small village, front doors left open during the day, and fado drifting out into the street.

Alfama is one of the places where fado originated and is much sought after for its numerous fado houses. It is a tradition for fadistas to gather in the street to sing during summer, creating a unique atmosphere for visitors to the neighbourhood. Alfama is calm, peaceful and safe during the day, with groups of tourists moving between fado houses and restaurants where the celebrated traditional Portuguese cuisine can be savoured. One of the highlights of Alfama takes place in June during the Festas da Cidade, when the neighbourhood fills with thousands of people from all nations crowding the streets and socialising into the early hours. At night, Alfama becomes a popular destination owing to its large number of restaurants.

Fado came to prominence when the Count of Vimioso began introducing it at the Portuguese Court through performances by Maria Severa Onofriana (1820–1846), recognised as the first fado singer. With the emergence of Amália Rodrigues, fado gained wider recognition and was acknowledged internationally as Amália Rodrigues built an international career — the first Portuguese artist to do so. Some of today’s best-known fadistas come from Alfama, including Ricardo Ribeiro, Raquel Tavares and Artur Batalha. Fado has been classified as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2011.

Exploring Alfama

The best way to visit Alfama is on foot, though Tram 28 is an excellent alternative for getting here. The route of Tram 28 begins at Praça do Martim Moniz and ends in Campo de Ourique, passing through several of the city’s main points of interest including the Alfama neighbourhood, Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte, Miradouro da Graça, the Lisbon Cathedral, Praça do Comércio, Rua Garrett, Praça Luís de Camões, Miradouro de Santa Catarina, Basílica da Estrela, Jardim da Estrela, Mercado de Campo de Ourique, Cemitério dos Prazeres and the Igreja do Santo Condestável in Campo de Ourique. The first service runs from 6 in the morning until after 11 at night, every day of the year. The Tram 28 line has 50 trams available, each with a capacity of 20 seated and 38 standing passengers. The line was created in 1914 and is today one of the symbols and most important tourist attractions of Lisbon.

Top 10 Places to Visit in Alfama

1. Panteão Nacional: The Panteão Nacional is housed within the Igreja de Santa Engrácia, located on Campo de Santa Clara. It is a building consecrated to the memory of distinguished persons, where their mortal remains are laid to rest. The current church began construction in 1682 during the reign of Dom Pedro II, under the direction of architect Mateus Couto, and took approximately 284 years to complete. The Igreja de Santa Engrácia served various functions following the dissolution of religious orders in 1834, including as barracks for the Second Battalion of the Lisbon National Guard, a weapons factory and a shoe production workshop. The Igreja de Santa Engrácia was designated as the Panteão Nacional in 1916, undergoing extensive alterations in the 1950s with the involvement of several architects including António Lino, Joaquim Areal e Silva, Raúl Lino and Luís Amoroso Lopes. The Panteão Nacional was inaugurated in 1966 — marking the fortieth anniversary of the Estado Novo regime — with the definitive construction of the reinforced concrete dome under the direction of architect António Lino. The distinguished Portuguese figures buried in the Panteão Nacional are:
   • Manuel de Arriaga;
   • Teófilo Braga;
   • Sidónio Pais;
   • Óscar Carmona;
   • Almeida Garrett;
   • Aquilino Ribeiro;
   • Guerra Junqueiro;
   • João de Deus;
   • Amália Rodrigues;
   • Humberto Delgado;
   • Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen;
   • Eusébio da Silva Ferreira.
     The Panteão Nacional also honours the following Portuguese figures with cenotaphs:
   • Luís Vaz de Camões;
   • Pedro Álvares Cabral;
   • Infante Dom Henrique;
   • Vasco da Gama;
   • Afonso de Albuquerque;
   • Dom Nuno Álvares Pereira.
     Other monuments in Portugal recognised as National Pantheons are:
   • Mosteiro de Santa Cruz de Coimbra: where Dom Afonso Henriques and Dom Sancho I are buried;
   • Mosteiro de Alcobaça: where Dom Afonso II, Dom Afonso III and Dom Pedro I are buried;
   • Mosteiro da Batalha: where Dom João I and Dona Filipa de Lencastre, Dom Duarte and Dona Leonor de Aragão, Dom Afonso V and Dom João II are buried;
   • Mosteiro dos Jerónimos: where Dom Manuel I, Dom João III, Dom Sebastião and Cardinal Dom Henrique are buried;
   • Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora: where the monarchs from Dom João IV to Dom Manuel II are buried, with the exception of Dom Pedro IV — whose remains are associated with Lisbon and Porto — and Dona Maria I, who is buried in the Basílica da Estrela.
     Other monuments where Kings and Queens of Portugal are buried, but which are not recognised as National Pantheons, include:
   • Convento de Odivelas: Tomb of Dom Dinis;
   • Sé Catedral de Lisboa: Tomb of Dom Afonso IV;
   • Museu do Carmo: Tomb of Dom Fernando I;
   • Cathedral of Toledo, Spain: where Dom Sancho II is buried.
     The word “pantheon” derives from the Latin “pantheon”, meaning “temple consecrated to the Gods”. The first Igreja de Santa Engrácia in Portugal was built in 1570 on the orders of Dona Maria, a daughter of King Dom Manuel I and devotee of Santa Engrácia.

1. Sé Catedral de Lisboa: The Sé Catedral de Lisboa is the most important church in Lisbon, located on Largo da Sé. It was inaugurated in 1150 in the Romanesque style under the direction of Master Roberto, officially designated Igreja de Santa Maria Maior by order of Dom Afonso Henriques, and subject to various interventions over the centuries, including the construction of the cloister between 1281 and 1319 during the reign of Dom Dinis, the construction of the Chapel of São Bartolomeu in 1324, the Chapel-Mor during the reign of Dom Afonso IV, the chevet and cloister paintings by Master Manuel André in 1569, the Chapter House and Treasury during the reign of Dom João V, the construction of the clock in 1743 and reconstruction following the 1755 earthquake. The main highlights of the Sé Catedral de Lisboa are:
   • Sacristy;
   • Chapel-Mor;
   • Tomb of Dom Afonso IV;
   • Font where Santo António was baptised in 1195;
   • Cloister;
   • Archaeological excavations of over three thousand years in the Gothic Cloister;
   • Nativity scene by Machado de Castro, 1766;
   • Royal Treasury including pieces such as the Monstrance of Dom José I;
   • Panoramic view over the Tagus River from the top of the tower.

1. Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora: The Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora is one of the oldest monasteries in Lisbon, built in gratitude for the Conquest of Lisbon in 1147. Construction of the original church began on 21 November 1147 and it was consecrated to Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Enfermaria and São Vicente Mártir, entrusted to the Order of Saint Augustine. The current monastery was built during the reign of Philip I of Portugal (1527–1598), with principal architects Juan de Herrera (1530–1597) — also responsible for the Mosteiro de San Lorenzo de El Escorial (1563–1584) — Filippo Terzi (1520–1597), Baltazar Álvares (1560–1630) and João Frederico Ludovice (1673–1752). The main points of interest of the Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora are:
   • Pantheon of the House of Braganza: The Pantheon of the House of Braganza was first planned by Dom João V and completed in 1932. The 1932 project was conducted by architect Raul Lino with the aim of providing a more dignified tomb for King Dom Carlos.
   • Façade with two towers: This was an innovative feature, as the construction of two towers on a church was exclusive to cathedral churches. The twin-tower design influenced the construction of other Christian churches across the country, including the Sé Nova in Coimbra (1598), the Igreja de São Lourenço (1690) in Porto and the Basílica da Estrela (1779) in Lisbon.
   • Cistern: the only structure remaining from the monastery commissioned by Dom Afonso Henriques. The cistern continues to function.
   • Largest collection of Baroque azulejo tilework in the world: The only comparable collection is the cloister of the Convento de São Francisco in Salvador da Bahia, Brazil.
   • Portaria of the Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora: notable for azulejo panel representations of episodes from Portuguese history and the various kings of Portugal who contributed to the monastery’s construction, and for the ceiling painting by the Italian Vicenzo Baccarelli.
   • Monastery Cloister: built in the 17th century, featuring 81 azulejo panels with approximately fifteen thousand tiles from the reign of Dom João V.
   • Chapel of Santo António: the chapel where Teresa Teixeira, the mother of Santo António, was buried.
   • Sacristy: commissioned by Dom João V and notable for its opulence.
   • Chapel of the Meninos de Palhavã: named after being transferred from the Palácio da Palhavã in Lisbon — now the Spanish Embassy. The chapel contains the burials of the illegitimate sons of Dom João V.
   • Azulejo panels with the Fables of La Fontaine: depicted across a total of 38 18th-century azulejo panels.
   • Church Tower: a privileged point from which to observe Lisbon, the Tagus River and the Serra da Arrábida.
   • Organ: built in 1765 by João Fontanes de Maqueira, with more than three thousand pipes across two keyboards and sixty stops — one of the largest organs in Portugal.
     São Vicente was a deacon in Zaragoza and one of the Hispanic martyrs who, according to legend, endured exceptional torture before dying on 22 January 304. He was buried in a cemetery in Valencia and later transferred to Cabo de São Vicente in the Algarve following the Muslim invasion of the Iberian Peninsula. Dom Afonso Henriques dispatched a fleet to Cabo de São Vicente to retrieve the body and relics, which were then transported by ship to Lisbon — becoming a great symbol of Christian unity against the Muslim enemy.
2. Miradouro de Santa Luzia: One of Lisbon’s most sought-after viewpoints, offering a magnificent view over Alfama, the Tagus River and the Serra da Arrábida, located on Largo de Santa Luzia. The main highlights are the view over the Alfama neighbourhood, azulejo panels depicting the Conquest of Lisbon in 1147 and Praça do Comércio before the 1755 earthquake, and a bust in honour of Lisbon historian Norberto de Araújo. The Miradouro de Santa Luzia is widely visited by tourists from around the world, contributing to a very pleasant atmosphere in the city.

1. Miradouro das Portas do Sol: One of Lisbon’s most sought-after viewpoints, located on Largo das Portas do Sol, also known as the Varanda do Tejo, near the Castelo de São Jorge. From the viewpoint it is possible to see the Panteão Nacional, the Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora, the Alfama neighbourhood, the Museu do Fado, the Igreja de São Miguel, the Igreja de Santo Estêvão, the Tagus River and the Serra da Arrábida. The highlights of the viewpoint are:
   • Statue of São Vicente by Raul Xavier;
   • Palácio Azurara, home of the Fundação Ricardo Espírito Santo Silva;
   • 10th-century Moorish Wall.
     On Largo das Portas do Sol, notable sites include:
   • Museu de Artes Decorativas;
   • Igreja de Santiago.

1. Museu do Fado e da Guitarra Portuguesa: The Museu do Fado is a museum where the historical evolution of fado can be explored, live performances of this Portuguese musical genre can be attended, and visitors can learn to play the Portuguese guitar. Located on the Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, which connects to Rua de São Pedro, Rua dos Remédios and the Tagus River, the museum was inaugurated on 25 September 1998. Its highlights include:
   • O Fado by José Malhoa, 1910;
   • Triptych O Marinheiro by Constantino Fernandes, 1913;
   • O Mais Português dos Quadros a Óleo by João Vieira, 2005;
   • Exhibition of musical instruments and costumes;
   • Documentation Centre where fado can be studied;
   • Museum School where fado singing and Portuguese guitar can be learned.

1. Miradouro de Santo Estêvão: One of Alfama’s lesser-known viewpoints, located in the courtyard in front of the Igreja de Santo Estêvão. It is a quiet spot away from the bustle of the city’s better-known viewpoints, offering views over the Alfama neighbourhood, the Serra da Arrábida and the Tagus River.
2. Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição-a-Velha: The Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição-a-Velha marks the boundary between the Baixa Pombalina and Alfama. The first church was built in 1496 under the name Igreja da Conceição dos Frades, replacing the synagogue that had stood on the site during the 15th century, and was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The current church was rebuilt after the earthquake to a design by Francisco António Ferreira. The main points of interest are:
   • Main façade: believed to be what remains of the original pre-1755 church. The façade is a Manueline portal in which the figure of Nossa Senhora da Misericórdia and the Virgin Mary, her cloak sheltering the whole of Portuguese society, are the central highlights.
   • Church nave: the ceiling painted in stucco depicting the Triumph of Nossa Senhora da Conceição by Félix da Rocha.
   • Statues of Saint Peter and Saint Paul by José de Almeida.
   • Chapel-Mor: The current Chapel-Mor was originally a side chapel commissioned by Simoa Godinha (1530–1594), a wealthy Black noblewoman from São Tomé and Príncipe and a major sugar producer. The centrepiece of the Chapel-Mor is the statue of Nossa Senhora da Conceição-a-Velha, sculpted between 1730 and 1740 by José de Almeida.
   • Image of Nossa Senhora de Belém: commissioned by Infante Dom Henrique (1394–1460) for a small church belonging to the Order of Christ, which was demolished to make way for the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. The image is significant because, according to oral tradition, it was before this image that Vasco da Gama prayed before departing for India in 1498.
   • Pipe Organ: this small organ came from the Palácio das Necessidades in Lisbon.
3. Teatro Romano: The Teatro Romano is an archaeological find dating from the 1st century AD, with an estimated capacity of 4,000 spectators. It is one of the five branches of the Museu de Lisboa, alongside the Palácio Pimenta, the Museu de Santo António, the Casa dos Bicos and the West Tower of Praça do Comércio. Located between Rua de São Mamede and Rua da Saudade — connecting to Largo do Caldas and Rua da Madalena — the ruins of the Teatro Romano were discovered in 1798 and first documented by Italian architect Francisco Xavier Fabri. The site was subject to several archaeological interventions, including between 1964 and 1967 under Fernando de Almeida and Irisalva Moita, and between 1989 and 1993 under the Museu de Lisboa and Lisbon City Council. It was inaugurated as a museum in 2001, integrated into two buildings — an 18th-century palace and a former 19th-century factory.

1. Casa dos Bicos: The Casa dos Bicos is one of the branches of the Museu de Lisboa and the home of the José Saramago Foundation — the Nobel Prize in Literature winner — located on Campo das Cebolas. It was commissioned by Brás de Albuquerque, son of Afonso de Albuquerque, Governor of Portuguese India, and built between 1521 and 1523 under the direction of Francisco de Arruda. The main façade of the palace was inspired by the Palazzo dei Diamanti in Ferrara, Italy, but built with pointed stone bosses rather than diamond shapes — hence its current name. The Casa dos Bicos was partially destroyed in the 1755 earthquake and later rehabilitated in 1981 under architects Manuel Vicente and Daniel Santa Rita, to host the European Exhibition of Art, Science and Culture and to inaugurate the nucleus Os Descobrimentos Portugueses and A Europa do Renascimento. Over time the building served as a cod warehouse, the headquarters of the Comissão Nacional para a Comemoração dos Descobrimentos Portugueses between 1987 and 2002, the Culture Department of Lisbon City Council between 2003 and 2008, and the José Saramago Foundation from 2008 to the present. The highlights of the Casa dos Bicos are:
   • Ruins of Roman Lisbon: notable for the discovery of 1st-century AD fish condiment factories, part of Lisbon’s Roman wall and a semicircular tower from the 3rd century.
   • José Saramago Foundation: housed on the two upper floors of the Casa dos Bicos, where the writer’s work can be viewed and studied.
   • Medieval Wall: part of the medieval wall was discovered here.
   • Cetariae: rectangular tanks used in factories during the Roman occupation.

Further Places to Explore in Alfama

• Igreja de Santo António: The Igreja de Santo António is a symbolic landmark of Lisbon, built on the site where Santo António was born in 1195, on the present-day Largo de Santo António da Sé. Construction began in 1495 during the reign of Dom João II and was completed during the reign of Dom Manuel I. The current church was entirely rebuilt between 1767 and 1812 under architect Mateus Vicente de Oliveira (1706–1786). The main points of interest are:
  • Statue of Santo António inaugurated by Pope John Paul II during his visit to Portugal in 1982, by Soares Branco;
  • Neoclassical façade;
  • Inscription plaque bearing the brief of Pope Pius VI granting plenary indulgence to those who visit the birthplace of Santo António;
  • Coat of arms of Portugal and the Bulhões family — Santo António’s family name — painted in the church narthex;
  • Organ built in 1872;
  • Room where Santo António was born.
• Igreja de São Miguel: The most important church in the Alfama neighbourhood, located on Largo de São Miguel. The Igreja de São Miguel was founded in 1295, with the current version built between 1673 and 1720 under architect João Nunes Tinoco — constituting one of the largest ensembles of gilded woodcarving in Lisbon. The highlights are:
  • Statue of São Miguel on the main façade;
  • Wooden ceiling painted in fifteen watercolours depicting angels;
  • Chapel of Santo António entirely clad in gilded woodcarving;
  • Sixteen paintings in gilded woodcarving frames depicting scenes from the New Testament by Bento Coelho da Silveira (1617–1706);
  • Chapel-Mor in gilded woodcarving with an image of São Miguel at the centre, flanked by a statue of Saint Joseph and one of Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem.
• Museu Militar de Lisboa: Lisbon’s oldest museum, inaugurated on 10 December 1851 as the Museu de Artilharia, located on Largo do Museu de Artilharia in Alfama, near Santa Apolónia railway station and the cruise terminal. The museum’s mission is to share the military history of Portugal and holds a collection of more than 26,000 pieces. The Museu Militar de Lisboa building was damaged on two occasions — by an explosion and by the 1755 earthquake. Its highlights include:
  • Main façade with a female sculpture symbolising the Fatherland;
  • Central courtyard with cannons and twenty-six azulejo panels telling the history of Portugal from the 12th-century Reconquista to the First World War (1914–1918);
  • Bronze artillery collection — one of the largest in the world;
  • Vehicle used to transport the columns forming part of the Arco da Rua Augusta;
  • Sala Vasco da Gama: with paintings by Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro including “O Velho do Restelo” depicting the Discovery of the Sea Route to India, “O Mural” by Carlos Reis, and the building’s ceiling by Luigi Manini;
  • Sala América: notable for the ceiling painted by Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro;
  • Space dedicated to João Maria Ferreira do Amaral, commander of the 15th Infantry Battalion — the most decorated infantry unit in the Portuguese Army for its actions at the Battle of the Lys on 9 April 1918. After the First World War, Ferreira do Amaral wrote “A Mentira da Flandres” and “O Medo”, in which he criticised the politics of the era;
  • Salas da Grande Guerra: notable for paintings by Sousa Lopes depicting the First World War and the Monument to the Unknown Soldier.
• Cobblestone portrait in honour of Amália Rodrigues: A tribute to Portugal’s most celebrated fadista, located between Rua de São Tomé and Calçada do Menino de Deus in Alfama. It was inaugurated on 2 July 2015, created by urban artist Vhils and the Escola de Calceteiros of Lisbon City Council.
• Museu do Aljube: Resistência e Liberdade: A museum dedicated to sharing the story of the struggle against the dictatorial regime that governed Portugal between 1926 and 1974, located on Pátio do Aljube between the Lisbon Cathedral and the Miradouro de Santa Luzia in Alfama. The museum is housed in the Aljube building — a word derived from the Arabic “al-jubb” meaning a dry well, dungeon or prison. The building served as a prison from its founding in the Roman period, including for clergy, women in the 19th century and political resisters between 1928 and 1965. The museum is structured as follows:
  • Floor -1: Archaeological remains from the Roman and Islamic periods;
  • Ground Floor: Former main prison gate, current museum entrance;
  • Floor 1: Part of the Permanent Exhibition, with sections on: The Rise and Fall of Fascism, Portugal 1890–1976, Undisputed Certainties, Clandestine Press, Clandestinity, and Political Police and Tribunals;
  • Floor 2: Part of the Permanent Exhibition, with sections on: Resistance, The Prison Circuit, Identification, Interrogations and Torture, Prisons and Concentration Camps, Resisting Behind Bars and Isolation in the “pens”;
  • Floor 3: Part of the Permanent Exhibition, with sections on: Colonialism and Anti-Colonial Struggle, Those Who Fell Along the Way, Freedom — 25 April 1974, Memory and Citizenship, Documentation Centre;
  • Floor 4: Auditorium and Cafeteria.
• Igreja de Santo Estêvão: A church forming part of one of Lisbon’s oldest parishes, established in 1183, located on Largo de Santo Estêvão. The first church was built between 1316 and 1543 and was badly affected by the 1755 earthquake. The current church was inaugurated in 1775 and features:
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo with a small wooden statuette;
  • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição with a marble medallion depicting Sant’Ana;
  • Chapel-Mor with representations of the Evangelists and pink marble decoration from the Serra da Arrábida;
  • Christ crucified flanked by two seraphim by José de Almeida and Jerónimo da Costa;
  • Image of Santo Estêvão by Nicolau Pinto;
  • 17th-century azulejo panels with biblical scenes.
• Chafariz d’El-Rei: One of Lisbon’s oldest fountains, dating from the Islamic period. Located on Travessa do Chafariz d’El-Rei in Alfama, it was built in the 13th century during the reign of Dom Dinis (1279–1325) and modified repeatedly until reaching its current 19th-century appearance. It is integrated within the Palácio do Marquês de Angeja and features:
  • Upper level with a terrace;
  • Lower level with water taps;
  • Panels depicting two caravels and the arms of Lisbon.
• Chafariz de Dentro: One of the water supply points for the Alfama population, located on Largo do Chafariz de Dentro. Built in the 13th century, it takes its name from being situated inside the Fernandine Walls built during the reign of Dom Fernando I (1345–1383). It was known as the Chafariz dos Cavalos owing to bronze horses that decorated the façade, believed to have been stolen by Spanish troops during the siege of Lisbon in 1384. The main highlight of the Chafariz de Dentro is its Baroque and Romantic façade, the current version dating from 1872.
• Museu-Escola de Artes Decorativas: A museum and school dedicated to showcasing the various decorative styles of Portuguese noble houses between the 17th and 19th centuries, located in the Palácio Azurara on Largo das Portas do Sol. The Palácio Azurara served various functions during the 20th century — as the Army General Staff Corps between 1902 and 1907, a religious college between 1907 and 1912 and a hospice related to hydrophobia (fear of water or liquids) between 1913 and 1933. It was purchased by Ricardo Espírito Santo Silva in 1947 and restored to a design by architect Raul Lino (1879–1974). The main highlights are:
  • Grand Staircase: featuring azulejo panels by Bartolomeu Antunes (1688–1753), a gilded woodcarving-framed mirror, two 16th- or 17th-century Flemish tapestries and two Qing dynasty Chinese porcelain vases;
  • Grand Salon: with themes of Oriental exoticism and the Portuguese Expansion, including a tapestry depicting Oriental animals and figures, an Indo-Portuguese writing desk made in present-day Mongolia and an 18th-century Arraiolos carpet;
  • Portuguese Chair Collection: comprising more than 300 chairs and 30 sofas from the 17th to 19th centuries from Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva’s private collection;
  • Vitrine Room: housing faience collections from the 18th to the 20th century, from workshops across Portugal including the former Real Fábrica do Rato in Lisbon, Viana do Castelo, Miragaia and Massarelos;
  • Bedrooms of Dom José I (1750–1777) and Dona Maria I (1777–1816): notable for Rococo furniture and a painting of the “Virgin and Child” by Gregório Lopes;
  • Sala Cadaval: notable for a 16th-century triptych depicting Saint Bartholomew, the Lamentation over the Dead Christ and Saint Francis by Gregório Lopes (1490–1550);
  • Sala dos Presépios: notable for the nativity scene with terracotta figures by Silvestre Faria Lobo;
  • Sala Dom João V: featuring a portrait of Dom João V by Pierre Antoine Quillard (1701–1753).
• Igreja do Menino de Deus: Known for the extravagance and richness of its Baroque style, which served as an inspiration for other churches in the city, located on Calçada do Menino de Deus. The current church was built between 1711 and 1730 under several architects, principally João Antunes (1643–1712) — who oversaw the initial phase before his death in 1712 — and João Frederico Ludovice (1673–1752). It was commissioned by Dom João V (1689–1750) to house an image of the Christ Child said to perform miracles, offered by the abbess of Madre de Deus, Cecília de Jesus (1694–1766). The highlights are the gilded woodcarving altarpieces by painters including Vieira Lusitano, André Rubira and André Gonçalves.
• 16th-century residential house: One of the few residential houses in Lisbon predating the 1755 earthquake, located on Rua dos Cegos near Rua de São Tomé. The main highlight is an azulejo panel from the 1940s.
• Igreja de Santa Luzia e São Brás: A church belonging to the Order of Malta, located on Largo de Santa Luzia. Santa Luzia is the patron saint of sight and São Brás the patron of medicine for the Order of Malta. The church was built during the reign of Dom Afonso Henriques and donated to the Order of Malta in gratitude for their assistance in the conquest of Lisbon from the Moors in 1147, and subsequently converted into a church-fortress. The current church was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake under architect Mateus Vicente Oliveira. The main points of interest are:
  • Azulejo panel depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake;
  • Azulejo panel depicting the Conquest of Lisbon from the Moors in 1147;
  • Ten tombs with Latin inscriptions;
  • Statue of Dom Nuno Álvares Pereira;
  • Statue of Rainha Santa Isabel.

Historic Classified Establishments

• Restaurante Estrela da Sé: The Restaurante Estrela da Sé takes its name as a tribute to the birthplace of its founder — Santiago de Compostela, meaning “field of stars.” Agapito Fernandes founded the restaurant in 1857. The gastronomic specialities include morcela, grilled chouriço, fried alheira, braised broad beans, Bife à Estrela and Iscas à Portuguesa.

Main Streets and Squares of Alfama

• Rua dos Remédios: The main street of Alfama and its principal hub for commerce and restaurants. It takes its name from the Ermida de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios and was known as Rua das Portas do Sol until 1859. Its main attraction is the Capela de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios.
• Rua de São Pedro: Also known as Rua Direita de São Pedro, this street is home to numerous restaurants, shops and fado houses. It connects Largo do Chafariz de Dentro to Rua de São Miguel. Rua de São Pedro was first mentioned in 1191 by the Bishop of Lisbon Dom Soeiro Annes, who was responsible for the Igreja de São Pedro de Alfama — later transferred in 1770 to the parish of São Pedro de Alcântara under the name Igreja de São Pedro de Alcântara.
• Largo de São Miguel: The heart of the Alfama neighbourhood, connecting Rua de São Miguel to Travessa do Terreiro do Trigo. It takes its name from the Igreja de São Miguel.
• Rua de São Miguel: The medieval high street of Alfama, connecting Largo de São Miguel to Rua dos Remédios. Rua de São Miguel was built between 1150 and 1180.
• Largo do Chafariz de Dentro: Considered the rossio of Alfama — a spacious open area where visitors can relax, stroll and browse the craft market held every Thursday throughout the year, except during July when the Festas de Santo António take place. Largo do Chafariz de Dentro connects Rua do Terreiro do Trigo, Rua do Jardim do Tabaco, Rua dos Remédios and Rua de São Pedro. It takes its name from the fountain situated inside the Fernandine Walls, built between 1373 and 1375 by King Dom Fernando I. The main highlights are the Chafariz de Dentro fountain and the Museu do Fado.

Fado Houses

• Clube de Fado: located on Rua de São João da Praça, near the Lisbon Cathedral, the Clube de Fado is noted for its welcoming and romantic atmosphere. It occupies a building of more than three hundred years, notable for its interior with arches, very thick walls, the ceiling and the Poço Moiro. Artists performing here include Mário Pacheco, Cuca Roseta and Carlos Leitão.
• Casa de Linhares: midway between the Lisbon Cathedral and the Tagus River, the Casa de Linhares is officially named Bacalhau do Molho. It was formerly the residence of the Counts of Linhares and is notable for its vaulted ceilings, large fireplace, stone floor, rustic wooden tables and red illuminated sofas set against the walls. The programme features quality artists including Jorge Fernando and Fábia Rebordão.
• Taverna del Rey: located on Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, one of Alfama’s most celebrated fado houses, notable for its ceiling decorated with wood evoking the caravels of the Portuguese Discoveries and its Portuguese cobblestone floor with fado-related motifs. Over the years the Taverna del Rey has hosted celebrated fadistas including Tony de Matos and Fernando Maurício.
• Mesa de Frades: located on Rua dos Remédios, this space has previously served as a chapel, grocery and tavern. The blue azulejo décor, welcoming atmosphere and quality of the food make it one of Lisbon’s most sought-after fado houses. Featured artists include Ricardo Ribeiro and Pedro Moutinho.
• A Parreirinha de Alfama: located near Rua dos Remédios, founded by Argentina Santos, a legend of fado. Artists who have performed here include Amália Rodrigues, Alfredo Marceneiro and Maria da Fé. The restaurant is notable for its décor featuring fado and Portuguese cuisine motifs.
• Tasca do Jaime d’Alfama;
• Senhor Fado;
• Adega dos Fadistas;
• A Baiúca;
• Dragão de Alfama;
• A Travessa do Fado — Bij Alfama;
• Esquina de Alfama;
• Páteo de Alfama;

• Pastel do Fado;
• Guitarras de Lisboa;
• Fado na Morgadinha;
• Coração de Alfama;
• São Miguel de Alfama;
• Boteco da Fá;
• Tasca Bela;
• Tasca do Chico;
• Duetos da Sé.

The civil parish authority for Alfama is the Junta de Freguesia de Santa Maria Maior.

Educational Establishments in Alfama

• Escola Superior de Educação Almeida Garrett;
• Instituto Universitário de Ciências Psicológicas, Sociais e da Vida.

Tourist Accommodation in Alfama

• Alfama Patio
• Hotel Convento do Salvador
• Memmo Alfama
• Palacete Chafariz d’el Rei
• Santiago de Alfama: Boutique Hotel

Fairs, Festivals and Pilgrimages

• Feira da Ladra: held weekly on Tuesdays and Saturday mornings near the Panteão Nacional;
• Santos Populares de Lisboa: held annually throughout June, with the highlight on the 12th;
• CaixaAlfama: held annually in September.

Transport and Access in Alfama

Alfama is served by the following public transport options:

• Lisbon Metro: Santa Apolónia Station (Blue Line)
• Trains: Santa Apolónia Station
• Car Parks: Miradouro das Portas do Sol

History of Alfama

Alfama was one of Lisbon’s Jewish quarters. The name Alfama derives from the Arabic “Al-Hamma”, meaning hot springs or thermal baths. Until the early 20th century, Alfama was known for its underground water sources with curative properties, reaching temperatures of 40°C. The Muslims divided Alfama into two zones:

1. Alfama do Alto, where the aristocracy lived; and
2. Alfama do Mar, closer to the river, where the common people lived.
   Alfama was first settled by the Muslims and subsequently by Jews following the Christian Reconquista. From the Middle Ages, Alfama entered a decline that persisted until the second half of the 20th century. The neighbourhood had high levels of crime until the 1990s, when recovery began. Today it is one of the most sought-after neighbourhoods both to live in and to visit, owing to the safety improvements and rehabilitation carried out over the years. It remains possible to walk the same narrow, winding streets, through the countless alleys and lanes, up the stairways that have existed since the neighbourhood’s founding — leading either towards the Castelo de São Jorge and Graça, or down to the Tagus River and the Baixa. The most notable streets are Rua dos Remédios, Rua de São Tomé and Rua de São Pedro. The most important squares are Campo das Cebolas, Largo de São Miguel and Largo do Chafariz de Dentro. Alfama is one of the places in the city — alongside the Mouraria and the Bairro Alto — where fado can be heard: a Portuguese musical style that has been called the blues of Portugal. Alfama is also home to the Lisbon Cathedral and some of the finest viewpoints in the Portuguese capital: the Miradouro das Portas do Sol, the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and the Miradouro de Santo Estêvão.
   An excellent alternative for visiting Alfama is Tram 28, which travels through historic Lisbon.

Urban Layout of Alfama

Alfama developed organically according to the needs of its population, without any urban plan. It is a labyrinthine neighbourhood of winding, narrow streets, countless alleys and stairways leading either towards the Graça neighbourhood and the Castelo de São Jorge, or downwards towards the Tagus River and the Baixa de Lisboa. The main highlights of Alfama are: Rua de São Tomé, home to the oldest traffic sign in Lisbon; Rua dos Remédios, the commercial street of the neighbourhood; Rua de São Pedro, known as the bohemian street of Alfama and home to the greatest concentration of fado houses; Campo das Cebolas, where the Casa dos Bicos — seat of the José Saramago Foundation (Nobel Prize in Portuguese Literature) — is located; Largo de São Miguel, home to the Igreja de São Miguel, the neighbourhood’s most important church, and the future site of the Museu Judaico de Lisboa; and Largo do Chafariz de Dentro — the gateway to Alfama — giving access to Rua dos Remédios and Rua de São Pedro, where the Museu do Fado is located.

Alfama Curiosities

• In 2002 a project to rehabilitate all of Alfama’s natural springs was proposed but never carried forward;
• There is a locality in Israel called al-Alhaman, known for its thermal waters;
• In Alfama, on Rua de São Tomé, stands the oldest traffic sign in Portugal, dated 1686;
• Alfama had four thermal bath houses in the 19th century: Alcaçarias do Duque, Alcaçarias de Dona Clara, Alcaçarias do Baptista and Banhos do Doutor;
• Queen Dona Maria I was a regular visitor to the thermal baths of Alfama;
• Alfama is home to one of Lisbon’s largest open-air markets: the Feira da Ladra;
• In Alfama there are street vendors selling ginjinha outside private homes.

Quick Facts about Alfama

• Alfama has approximately ten thousand inhabitants;
• Main economic activities: tourism, restaurants and fishing.

Location of the Santa Maria Maior Parish (Alfama) on the Lisbon Map